How vitamin A prevents premature ageing, and which type to look for in a serum.
Vitamin A is an essential nutrient for healthy skin. This article decodes the confusing difference between retinoic acid, retinol, retinyl palmitate and retinaldehyde.
So, let’s begin at the beginning. In the 1940s, Dermatologist Dr Albert Kligman discovered Retinoids (vitamin A) as an effective treatment for acne. While treating his patients, he noticed they were experiencing improvements in other conditions, such as wrinkles, blotchy pigmentation and uneven skin tone.
To this day, vitamin A remains one of the most effective treatments for premature skin ageing.
How vitamin A works on the skin.
When applied topically, retinoids communicate with your skin’s cells to improve cell proliferation, recalibrating the skin to behave more youthfully and providing a robust antioxidant network to slow down free radicals which oxidise and damage the skin.
Continuous use will brighten and rehydrate the skin and significantly contribute to reversing the damage to your skin’s DNA caused by over-exposure to the sun.
Which type of Vitamin A should you use?
1. Prescription retinoic acid: Fast acting.
A prescription of retinoic acid, obtained from your GP or cosmetic doctor, is a fast, inexpensive and effective way of reducing wrinkles, pigmentation and poor skin tone. However, it can be very irritating to the skin and can cause redness, irritation and peeling. Prescription retinoid acid needs to be balanced by other antioxidants like vitamins C, E and B3, but with time and adjustments to the dose, the irritating side effects usually settle down.
2. Retinol: Widely used in the cosmetic industry.
Retinol is a pure form of vitamin A in many skincare products. It would be best to look for a concentration of at least one per cent in a serum or cream for optimum results.
3. Retinyl Palmitate: Best for overall skin health.
Retinyl Palmitate combines retinol and palmitic acid, a gentler way of putting vitamin A on your skin and best for overall skin health. Use a product with retinyl palmitate and a nightly retinol serum for long-term and dramatic results.
4. Retinaldehyde: Potent but expensive.
This potent form of vitamin A requires minimal conversion within the skin, so it causes very little irritation. However, it’s expensive and not widely used in skin care preparations. If you opt for retinaldehyde, look for formulations packaged in airtight containers with minimal exposure to light and air to preserve the formula’s potency. Please don’t make the mistake of over-using it, as a pea-sized amount used regularly is more than enough to yield long-term results.